This year I once again attended Who’s Next, the iconic Paris trade show dedicated to ready-to-wear fashion. For me, it has always been one of the best places to understand where the international fashion industry is heading. Walking through the stands, meeting buyers, talking to exhibitors, and soaking in the unique atmosphere of Porte de Versailles is still one of the most concrete ways to take the pulse of the market.
This year, one topic kept echoing through the halls, the nearby cafés, and even at post-event dinners: “Do you remember how big Who’s Next used to be before Covid?” That, in the end, was the main theme of the 2025 edition, the contrast between what the fair once was and what it has become.
Anyone who experienced the pre-pandemic years remembers seven full halls, hundreds of brands, buyers from every continent, and that unmistakable energy that made you feel like you were standing right in the heart of the fashion world. Today, however, Who’s Next fits into just one large pavilion. It is not only a question of space but a sign of how much the Western fashion industry has changed. When even the largest and most established ready-to-wear fair in the world reduces its size, it clearly shows that the entire system is evolving.
Before Covid, Who’s Next was a true global hub, with buyers coming from Asia, the Americas, the Middle East, and Africa. After the pandemic, that dynamic gradually shifted. Every year the international attendance has declined a bit, and the 2025 edition confirmed this trend.
One thing that immediately stands out is the smaller presence of Asian buyers. Just a few years ago, they were everywhere: Japanese, Chinese, and Korean professionals were always among the most active. This time, I met just a couple of Japanese buyers and one small group from China. That’s it.
And the decline is not limited to Asia. The same goes for American buyers, who were almost invisible this year. It is partly due to timing and travel costs, but we cannot overlook the lingering effects of the trade tariffs introduced during the Trump administration and the following years. Those measures still affect trade flows between Europe and the United States, making it less appealing for many American businesses to invest in European events.
Unlike fairs such as Micam or Mipel, I also did not see much of a presence from Africa. It is clear that Who’s Next has become more European in its scope, still relevant but less global than it once was.
Alongside the overall reduction in exhibition space, another clear change stood out this year: the mix of brands. Many of the “usual names” were gone. The cost of exhibiting has become significant, and for some companies, it is simply no longer worth it. At the same time, the return on investment of such events has to be evaluated carefully every single time.
From what I could observe, around sixty to seventy percent of the brands present this year were new compared to previous editions. It is not an official statistic, but it helps to put things into perspective. The turnover of exhibitors has now become a consistent sign of how dynamic and competitive the market is.
In their place, there were many new and emerging brands, some making their international debut. There was no shortage of interesting ideas, but the real shift lies elsewhere. The fair is clearly targeting a higher-end segment, while obviously avoiding internal competition with its sister event, Première Classe. Compared to the past, I noticed a stronger presence of premium brands and even a few luxury ones, while the mid-range still dominates in absolute terms. It is a deliberate positioning choice, a clear statement about the audience that Who’s Next wants to attract.
Then there are those unique details that make this fair stand out from all the others. My son absolutely loved the duck fishing game, yes, actual rubber ducks with prizes to win. Personally, I still wonder how much that contributes to business, but it certainly makes visitors smile and lightens up the mood.
And what about the massage stations? Dedicated chairs where people could stop and relax right in the middle of the fair. I must confess I did not try them, because I am one of those people who simply cannot stop working, maybe that is my problem. But watching others take a short break amid the buzz of activity made me think. Who’s Next remains consistent with its identity: different, enjoyable, and more lifestyle-oriented than technical.
And let’s be honest, of course they are French. And who better than the French could bring a touch of art de vivre even into a fashion trade show?
From a business point of view, Who’s Next remains a useful but selective fair. The buyers who attend come with very clear goals and tight schedules. They know what they are looking for, they expect professionalism, and they do not have much time to waste.
For this reason, I would mainly recommend the fair to brands that already have experience in international markets. It is not the right place to experiment or test the waters. Those who are not fully prepared risk missing valuable opportunities.
Emerging designers are in fact the ones who change the most from one edition to another. It is not easy for them to gain continuity here. That is exactly why I am preparing another article: a short and practical guide on how to approach a trade fair like this without burning your chances.
Who’s Next is much more than just a trade fair. It is a mirror of global change, and every signal it sends deserves attention if we want to understand where the future is heading.
All these elements point to one clear message: the West is no longer the unquestioned center of fashion. It must reinvent itself and learn how to engage with the new global hubs that are shaping the industry’s future.
In summary, three key takeaways emerged from this edition: the downsizing of the fair, the shift toward a higher-end segment, and the absence of truly innovative trends. Together, these factors describe a moment of transition for European fashion, where trade shows must rethink their purpose in order to remain relevant.
Who’s Next is no longer the massive event it used to be ten years ago, but it still plays an important role. Today it feels more European, more selective, and more oriented toward a premium audience.
Considering its scale, variety, and duration, I would not recommend it to buyers coming from the other side of the world unless they also plan to visit showrooms, attend meetings, or simply enjoy Paris itself. At the same time, Who’s Next remains the most important ready-to-wear fair in the world for what it represents: its history, its symbolism, and its ability to reflect the ongoing evolution of our industry.