After spending two weeks visiting multiple fashion trade shows across the United States, from Las Vegas to New York, I came away with a number of reflections that go beyond the individual events themselves.
Rather than focusing on specific fairs, what interested me most was the broader picture that emerged about the current state of the American fashion industry, particularly among independent brands and emerging labels.
And to be completely honest, the overall impression was somewhat mixed.
There are certainly good brands in the United States. I did encounter a few that stood out for their design quality, organization and product development. But speaking in general terms, and looking at the industry as a whole, I expected to see much more talent and innovation than what I actually found.
The Illusion of the “Designer”
One pattern that appeared repeatedly across many of the shows was the large number of brands presenting themselves as designer labels while in reality offering very limited product development.
In many cases, collections were built almost entirely around printed hoodies and t-shirts, or around garments sourced through ODM production, often manufactured in China.
There is nothing inherently wrong with using global manufacturing networks. Fashion has always relied on international supply chains.
However, what becomes problematic is when this type of product is presented as if it were the result of genuine design work.
Too often, the term “designer” seems to be used very loosely.
In some cases, the only real creative intervention appears to be a graphic print applied to an existing garment template.
From a branding perspective this may work, but from a product development perspective it raises questions about what design actually means today.
A Lack of Product Research
Another element that surprised me was the limited level of product research and development visible in many collections.
Walking through booth after booth, I often saw garments that felt extremely familiar.
Similar silhouettes.
Similar fabrics.
Similar constructions.
In many cases there seemed to be very little experimentation with materials, tailoring, or garment construction.
Equally noticeable was the lack of attention given to product presentation.
Compared to what you typically see in Europe or in many parts of Asia, the way products were displayed often felt less curated and less carefully considered.
Presentation may seem like a secondary detail, but in fashion it plays an important role. How a product is presented communicates how much attention has been invested in it.
Price Over Product
Another strong impression was the central role that price competitiveness plays in the U.S. market.
Many brands appear to build their business models around relatively low production costs combined with strong margins.
Again, this is not necessarily wrong from a commercial perspective. Fashion is also a business, and there is clearly a very large market for this type of product.
But when price becomes the main differentiating factor, product development and design innovation often take a secondary role.
The result is an environment where many collections feel more like variations of the same commercial formula rather than expressions of distinctive creative identities.
It is not exactly fast fashion, but in many cases it sits uncomfortably close to that territory.
The Brands That Stand Out
At the same time, it is important to say that the situation is not entirely negative.
Among the hundreds of brands present at the shows, a smaller group clearly stood out. These were companies that had invested real effort in developing their product, refining their collections and building a stronger identity.
When those brands appear, the difference becomes immediately visible.
The design is more thoughtful.
The materials are more carefully selected.
The collections feel more coherent and developed.
Interestingly, many of the brands that impressed me the most during this trip shared something in common: they were producing much closer to home.
Several of the most interesting brands were made in Canada, made in Europe, made in the United States, or produced directly in the country where the brand itself is based.
This often means higher production costs, but it also tends to result in a much stronger control over product development, materials and overall quality.
And in fashion, that difference is usually very easy to recognize.
The Need for Investment and Education
If there is one conclusion I would draw from this experience, it is that the American fashion ecosystem could benefit from greater investment in product development, education and design culture.
The United States is an enormous market with incredible entrepreneurial energy, and the potential for strong fashion brands is certainly there.
But to fully unlock that potential, there needs to be a deeper focus on the fundamentals of fashion creation:
product development, material research, craftsmanship, and design integrity.
These are the elements that ultimately separate strong brands from those that simply follow existing formulas.
A Personal Conclusion
Personally, after this experience, I am not sure that I will continue traveling to the United States specifically for brand scouting in the future.
The reason is quite simple.
Many of the brands that caught my attention during these events were not American at all. They were European brands already operating internationally.
That said, I do not regret the trip.
Spending two weeks exploring the American trade show landscape offered valuable insights into how the industry operates and where its strengths and weaknesses currently lie.
And sometimes, seeing a market from the inside is exactly what allows you to understand it more clearly.
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